The Aakhya Weekly #93 | Behind the Label: A Deeper Look at Fashion's Dark Secret

In Focus: The Cerrado's Silent Cry: How Fashion Fuels Devastation

By Aradhana Gupta

Our fascination with clothing is a deeply human story. From the rudimentary fig leaves of our ancestors to the haute couture gracing runways, garments have served not only for protection but also for self-expression. However, the story behind the intricate embroidery or the perfectly tailored cut can be a harsh one.

In the glittering world of fashion, where trends are born and styles evolve at a breakneck speed many stains often go unnoticed. Behind the shimmering fabrics and luxurious textures, lies a tale of environmental degradation, land grabbing, unethical labor practices, and violent land conflicts.

The recent revelations of rampant deforestation, land grabbing, and exploitative labor practices in Brazil's Cerrado region serve as a stark reminder of the destructive consequences of the fast fashion industry. This disturbing exposé sheds light on just a fraction of the immense harm inflicted by the relentless pursuit of cheap materials and production, prompting urgent calls for accountability and reform within the fashion supply chain.

Environmental Devastation: A Stitch in Time Saves None

Fast fashion, the engine of fleeting trends and bargain-basement prices epitomizes the environmental toll. Synthetic fabrics, the backbone of this industry, are derived from fossil fuels, contributing significantly to climate change. A recent study published in Nature Climate Change paints a grim picture – the fashion industry is responsible for a staggering 10% of global carbon emissions annually. This figure doesn't even account for the environmental impact of dyeing, finishing, and transporting garments across the globe.

The relentless demand for cotton, a seemingly natural material, adds another layer of environmental destruction. Cotton production is notoriously water-intensive, requiring vast amounts of this precious resource. The World Wildlife Fund estimates that a single cotton T-shirt consumes a staggering 2,700 liters of water – enough to meet the daily needs of one person for three years. This water depletion, particularly in regions already grappling with drought, paints a bleak picture of the true cost of our clothing choices.

Human Cost: The Threads that Bind Us

The human cost of fashion is equally concerning. Unsafe working conditions, low wages, and child labor are prevalent in many garment-producing countries. Exposés like The Guardian's investigation into the forced labor of Uyghur Muslims in China's cotton fields serve as a stark reminder of the human suffering hidden behind the trendy clothing we wear.

In the pursuit of profit, fashion conglomerates often trample upon the rights of indigenous communities and local populations, relegating their ancestral lands to mere commodities ripe for exploitation. Take, for instance, the case of the Hmong people in Laos, whose traditional way of life has been upended by the encroachment of textile factories and hydropower projects. Despite their protests, they find themselves marginalized and displaced, casualties of a system that prioritizes profit over people.

These stories highlight a fundamental disconnect. We adorn ourselves in garments crafted by individuals denied basic human rights and subjected to hazardous working conditions. This disconnect exemplifies a need for a more conscious approach to fashion, one that values the well-being of those who make our clothes as much as the style of the final product.

A Web of Exploitation: Deforestation in the Brazilian Cerrado

Adding to the ethical complexities of fashion, a new investigation by Earthsight links clothing giants H&M and Zara to large-scale illegal deforestation in Brazil's Cerrado.

The Cerrado, often overshadowed by its more famous neighbor the Amazon rainforest, is a vast savanna ecosystem teeming with biodiversity. It's home to 10% of all plant and animal species found in Brazil, making it a vital ecological treasure trove. However, the Cerrado is facing a significant threat – deforestation. Driven by the expansion of agriculture, particularly cattle ranching and soybean production, swathes of this ecosystem are being cleared at an alarming rate.

The investigation alleges that cotton produced on illegally deforested land in the Cerrado ends up in the supply chains of major fashion brands like H&M and Zara. This raises concerns not only about environmental destruction but also about potential land grabbing and violence against indigenous communities.

The Fashion Industry's Dirty Secret

Earthsight's investigation alleges that cotton produced on illegally deforested land in the Cerrado ends up in the supply chains of major fashion brands like H&M and Zara. These brands, while publicly committed to sustainable practices, may be unknowingly reliant on cotton sourced through environmentally destructive means.

The implications of this are far-reaching. Deforestation in the Cerrado disrupts the delicate ecological balance, leading to a loss of biodiversity, increased carbon emissions, and disruptions to water cycles. Furthermore, illegal land grabs associated with deforestation can displace indigenous communities who have lived in harmony with the Cerrado for generations.

The Battle for Resources or a Battle against our Planet?

Beyond the borders of our consciousness, in remote corners of the globe, lie the battlegrounds of resource wars fueled by the insatiable appetite of the fashion industry. Another example is the Democratic Republic of Congo where armed groups profit from the illicit trade of conflict minerals, such as coltan, used in the production of electronic devices and fashion accessories. The spoils of war come at a steep price — human lives lost, communities torn asunder, and ecosystems ravaged by violence and greed.

A Stitch Towards a Brighter Future

There is, however, hope amidst the darkness.

Earthsight's investigation serves as a wake-up call for the fashion industry. It exposes the need for greater transparency in supply chains and stricter regulations to ensure ethical and sustainable sourcing practices.

"Fashion is more than just clothes; it's a reflection of who we are and what we stand for."

Sustainable fashion movements are gaining traction, challenging the status quo of the industry. Brands are increasingly exploring eco-friendly materials like organic cotton, recycled polyester, and Tencel. These materials offer a path towards a more sustainable future, requiring less water and fossil fuels in production.

Consumers too, are becoming more aware of the hidden costs of fast fashion. A growing trend focuses on quality over quantity, with individuals opting for timeless pieces that will last longer and reduce the overall environmental impact. Supporting ethical brands that prioritize fair wages, safe working conditions, and responsible sourcing practices is another powerful step towards positive change.

Patagonia's pledge to use only recycled or regenerative materials by 2025 is a groundbreaking example. This initiative demonstrates the economic viability of sustainable practices, sending a powerful message to the entire fashion industry.

The Final Stitch: Rethinking Our Wardrobe, Redefining Our World

As we stand at the precipice of a new era in fashion, the path forward demands a radical reimagining of our relationship with clothing. Gone are the days of mindless consumption and disposable trends; instead, we are called to embrace a more mindful approach that values quality, durability, and ethical production. In this evolving narrative of style, the threads of environmental responsibility, fair labor practices, and timeless elegance intertwine to form the fabric of a better world.

But amidst this shifting landscape, one question looms large: Are we ready to confront the realities hidden behind the glamour of the runway? Can we reshape our perceptions of fashion to prioritize the well-being of both people and the planet? The answer lies not in grand gestures, but in the everyday choices we make – the brands we support, the garments we wear, and the values we uphold.

In this tapestry of contradictions, where beauty coexists with destruction and opulence with oppression, each stitch becomes a symbol of our interconnectedness with the world around us. As we address our desires and the need for consumption, let us listen to the whispers of conscience and tread lightly upon the Earth. For in the delicate weave of life, every decision counts, and it is up to us to craft a narrative of compassion, justice, and sustainability that resonates for generations to come.

Sources

Rincón, F., et al. (2020). "Halfway to Paris: Application of the EU methodology to assess clothing production environmental impacts." Nature Climate Change 10(3), 255-263. doi: 10.1038/s41558-019-0621-1: https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/retail/our-insights/fashion-on-climate

World Wildlife Fund. "Cotton: How thirsty is your T-shirt?" https://wwf.panda.org/wwf_news/?8825966/Benchmarking-of-Sustainability-Standards-used-in-Cotton-Production

The Guardian. (2024, February 12). "Uyghur Muslims detained in China reveal experiences in forced labor camps."

Earthsight. (2024, March). "Burning Fashion: How Wilful Ignorance Fuels Amazon Fires and Cerrado Destruction." https://www.earthsight.org.uk/investigations

Top Stories of the Week

NPCI invites new UPI vendors to discuss market share concerns as regulation on Big Fintech rises

In a recent meeting regarding competition within the UPI vendor space held by the NPCI (National Payments Corporation), the NPCI notably left out Google, PhonePe and Paytm from the foray. The NPCI invited several smaller UPI vendors such as CRED, Slice, Groww to discuss concerns of a concentrated market for the payment services platform with Google, PhonePe and Paytm collectively possessing over 90% market share within the UPI payments space by volume. 

In an earlier meeting this year in March, NPCI also issued new norms for market share by transaction volume, limiting the individual share of a company to 30% of the total users onboarded, the guidelines set December 2024 as the deadline for compliance, while pushing for growth of smaller UPI vendors.  This shift in approach to maintaining market competitiveness could stem from the shutdown of Paytm Payments Bank, a diktat that sent shockwaves across the fintech ecosystem, as it signaled a new era of stringent regulatory control and oversight on larger players. Another possible incentive for ensuring a diverse set of vendors for businesses and consumers to choose from could be to reduce market power in order to ensure minimal transaction costs for enterprises and maintain UPI’s zero-transaction fee status for the consumer to prevent the risk of losing its mass appeal.

With the rapid adoption of UPI as the preferred payments interface and the increasing appeal for new players to gain a competitive share of transactions, Indian regulators will have to play a fine balancing act between enterprise and equity.

7th round of India-Peru Trade Negotiations Conclude

India and Peru recently concluded their seventh round of negotiations for a proposed free trade agreement, held in New Delhi from April 8 to April 11, 2024. Discussions during this round covered various topics including trade in goods and services, movement of natural persons, Rules of Origin, custom procedures, dispute settlement and cooperation, among others.

Over the past two decades, trade between India and Peru has seen significant growth, with Peru becoming India's third-largest trading partner in the Latin American and Caribbean region. Starting from a modest $66 million in 2003, the trade has surged to an impressive $3.68 billion, highlighting a substantial growth trajectory. Notable exports from India to Peru include motor vehicles, iron and steel products, cotton yarn, and fabrics, while imports from Peru to India consist mainly of bulk minerals and ores, gold, fertilizers, crude oil, and zinc.

Establishing a trade agreement is particularly important for India to access lithium reserves in Peru. Further, this trade deal is expected to foster greater industrial collaboration, encourage commercial investments, and benefit both business stakeholders and consumer markets. India is prioritizing the completion of the trade agreement with Peru as part of its 100-day plan following the 2024 general elections. New Delhi perceives ample opportunities for expanding bilateral trade with Latin American and Caribbean nations, given that Indian exports currently constitute less than 2% of total imports in these regions.

The next round of negotiations is scheduled to take place in June 2024 in Lima, preceded by intersessional negotiations via video conference to address any outstanding issues before the official meeting.

A Few Good Reads

• Arkoprabho Hazra underscores the plight of Indians ensnared in fraudulent job schemes abroad. 

• Rising illegal betting platforms exploit cricket's popularity, necessitating government action to protect consumers and revenue opines Nandkumar Saravade

• Iran-Israel crossfire reveals global divisions and calls for conflict resolution handbooks says Tara Kartha 

• Is Saudi Arabia's progressive facade masking ongoing repression of human rights activists asks Lina al-Hathloul

• Deepanshu Mohan argues that in a bid to outdo each other, competitive welfarism binds Congress and BJP.